Sunday, January 24, 2010

A Surf Day

It was cold and dark. The rain was pouring down as though the sky had it heart broken and wanted to relieve the pain as quickly as possible. The winds were fierce and the trees were bending almost to the ground. We had our surfboards and sails ready. It was seven in the morning. Time to surf.
It had been six weeks with no wind at all. Well, not without any wind but it was not satisfactory to try and learn something new with the same draft that people use when they first begin to windsurf. There were no waves as well and we thought this is one summer we will not be surfing. We started to think of alternative ways to keep ourselves amused but when you’re at the beach all day every day for three months you get bored pretty soon. There were a couple of moments when we thought that waves might come or that the calm and gentle breeze would turn into a roaring and powerful driving force but we were wrong. We checked website forecasts every day and several times they had promised wonderful conditions for surfing. Usually, they were rarely wrong but this time they were every single day they said we had a chance. Then one day, when we had lost all hope we saw I; a thin line far into the water signifying a vast change in the wind. We could not believe our eyes. Could this really be? Have wind and waves finally found us? The line quickly began to move towards the beach and we could see it as a border separating the clear crystal waters near the sand and those that were uneasy and ready to rise in the deep. Clouds accompanied the wind line and the whole scene was as though taken out of a movie. Everything was calm and then the deep breath before the plunge had passed and now the storm was here. It was not that strong yet and we knew it would not be until the next day. So we packed up and went home for a good night sleep and a day of surfing.
Seven in the morning. Time to surf. The storm had now grown to tremendous proportions and we barely see where the beach was. This would not stop us to go and do what we must. The waves reached a height of about five meters and when we first saw them we were really afraid. But we soon remembered the long days of doing nothing, the countless hours of waiting for this very moment, and the endless times we would regret it if we did not take this chance. We took a deep breath and went into the watery abyss. And the rest is history…